joey_g wrote:Take the tip out.
Glue a wood disc on the face of the ferrule, like 3 mm thick.
Center hole that ( make sure the shaft turns true with that center holed disc ).
I do this same exact thing... but only when changing the taper of the shaft.
joey_g wrote:Make it close to flush with the ferrule.
Turn down with a 2-blade router bit ( the smalle the better/more accurate ).
Put a masking tape on the ferrule so u can tell if you are going to hit the ferrule soon.
If I use a router to turn down the shaft, won't I be changing the taper? What if I want to retain the original taper of the shaft and just turn it down to size? What about the ferrule, how do you turn that down? Do I just sand it down? I would guess that if I sand it down, I'd have to have it turning real slow on the lathe so as not to generate too much heat and melt the ferrule? My friend has a 1st generation pred 314 shaft and he want's it turned down to 12mm. Is this too small? How thin is the 314 ferrule?
I have turned down several solid maple shafts and what I usually do is this:
(1) chuck it up on the lathe with the ferrule portion sticking out; I make sure that it is turning true using a dial indicator.
(2) I turn down the ferrule close to the desired size using my round nose toolbit.
(3) Sand the rest of the shaft down to size.
I just don't know if I can do the same method on the ferrule of the 314. I did not want to experiment on my friends 314 shaft
as I have never turned down a predator shaft before.