How do I turn down a predator 314 shaft?

Discuss repair and maintenance and building cues or talk about materials, tools and miscellaneous components used in building or repairing pool cues.

Moderator: Moderators

Forum rules
Rule 1: Posts must be in English or have an English translation.
Rule 2: No spamming, trolling, flaming or use of foul, defamatory or abusive language.
Rule 3: Any posts that encourage illegal intent will be removed and the account disabled immediately.
Rule 4: No advertising of any sort. You may advertise in the Advertising forum only.

The moderators reserve the right to edit, delete, or prune any and all Messages which, in our opinion, violates any of the rules as stated above. Offenders will be warned and may be banned for non-compliance.

How do I turn down a predator 314 shaft?

Postby BECue on Fri Oct 26, 2007 8:34 pm

A friend of mine wanted me to turn down his predator 314 shaft but I am a little concerned about the ferrule and the shaft as well. I've been told that the 314 ferrule is a little soft and if you're not careful, it is easy to ruin it. What is the best way to turn down a 314 shaft making sure not to damage the ferrule and the glue that bonds the laminated woods on the shaft.

Thanks in advanced for the input.
Empty your mind, be formless. Shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle and it becomes the bottle. You put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now, water can flow or it can crash. Be water my friend. - Bruce Lee
User avatar
BECue
Moderator/Cuemaker
Moderator/Cuemaker
 
Posts: 1324
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2000 5:00 am
Location: United States

Postby joey_g on Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:40 pm

Take the tip out.
Glue a wood disc on the face of the ferrule, like 3 mm thick.
Center hole that ( make sure the shaft turns true with that center holed disc ).
Make it close to flush with the ferrule.
Turn down with a 2-blade router bit ( the smalle the better/more accurate ).
Put a masking tape on the ferrule so u can tell if you are going to hit the ferrule soon.
Once your router bit hits that tape, you know you are really close.
Don't go thinner that 12.25MM.
User avatar
joey_g
Forum Mentor
Forum Mentor
 
Posts: 3520
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2000 6:00 am
Location: United States

Postby joey_g on Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:40 pm

Take the tip out.
Glue a wood disc on the face of the ferrule, like 3 mm thick.
Center hole that ( make sure the shaft turns true with that center holed disc ).
Make it close to flush with the ferrule.
Turn down with a 2-blade router bit ( the smalle the better/more accurate ).
Put a masking tape on the ferrule so u can tell if you are going to hit the ferrule soon.
Once your router bit hits that tape, you know you are really close.
Don't go thinner that 12.25MM.
User avatar
joey_g
Forum Mentor
Forum Mentor
 
Posts: 3520
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2000 6:00 am
Location: United States

Postby dutch824 on Fri Nov 02, 2007 3:36 pm

I guess there is always at least two ways to do anything. First I would like to know how much your customer wants to take off. If it is just a small amount which on a Predator it better not be much, since they start out at about 12.75mm. I usually chuck up the shaft simular to as if I were replacing the tip and use a very sharp round nose carbine bit to cut down the tip, ferrule and the first inch or inch and a half of the shaft to nearly the desired diameter, prehaps just a couple 1/1000 oversize. Then I put the shaft between centers and sand the shaft to the final size blending the tapper as I go. I start sanding with 180 or 220 and then 300, 400, 600, and 1000. It works for me, and I have less opportunity to screw up a shaft.
Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity!
User avatar
dutch824
Forum Addict
Forum Addict
 
Posts: 37
Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2007 5:00 am
Location: United States

Postby BECue on Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:01 pm

joey_g wrote:Take the tip out.
Glue a wood disc on the face of the ferrule, like 3 mm thick.
Center hole that ( make sure the shaft turns true with that center holed disc ).


I do this same exact thing... but only when changing the taper of the shaft.

joey_g wrote:Make it close to flush with the ferrule.
Turn down with a 2-blade router bit ( the smalle the better/more accurate ).
Put a masking tape on the ferrule so u can tell if you are going to hit the ferrule soon.


If I use a router to turn down the shaft, won't I be changing the taper? What if I want to retain the original taper of the shaft and just turn it down to size? What about the ferrule, how do you turn that down? Do I just sand it down? I would guess that if I sand it down, I'd have to have it turning real slow on the lathe so as not to generate too much heat and melt the ferrule? My friend has a 1st generation pred 314 shaft and he want's it turned down to 12mm. Is this too small? How thin is the 314 ferrule?

I have turned down several solid maple shafts and what I usually do is this:

(1) chuck it up on the lathe with the ferrule portion sticking out; I make sure that it is turning true using a dial indicator.
(2) I turn down the ferrule close to the desired size using my round nose toolbit.
(3) Sand the rest of the shaft down to size.

I just don't know if I can do the same method on the ferrule of the 314. I did not want to experiment on my friends 314 shaft :D as I have never turned down a predator shaft before.
Empty your mind, be formless. Shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle and it becomes the bottle. You put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now, water can flow or it can crash. Be water my friend. - Bruce Lee
User avatar
BECue
Moderator/Cuemaker
Moderator/Cuemaker
 
Posts: 1324
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2000 5:00 am
Location: United States

Postby joey_g on Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:34 pm

If I use a router to turn down the shaft, won't I be changing the taper? What if I want to retain the original taper of the shaft and just turn it down to size?

Measure the Pred's taper.
Angle the bar and indicate the movement of the Y axis.
IT should be half the taper ( 1 MM of taper is .5 MM of Y travel ).
User avatar
joey_g
Forum Mentor
Forum Mentor
 
Posts: 3520
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2000 6:00 am
Location: United States

Postby BECue on Wed Nov 07, 2007 6:42 pm

Thanks for the replies joey. I will keep this in mind. However, I have declined to work on my friends 314 shaft for now.
Empty your mind, be formless. Shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle and it becomes the bottle. You put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now, water can flow or it can crash. Be water my friend. - Bruce Lee
User avatar
BECue
Moderator/Cuemaker
Moderator/Cuemaker
 
Posts: 1324
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2000 5:00 am
Location: United States



Return to All About Cue Maintenance, Cue making and building materials

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests